1. Removing Existing Rust (For a Clean Surface)
(1) Mechanical Methods
Wire Brushing/Grinding:
Use a stainless steel wire brush or angle grinder with abrasive pads (60–80 grit).
Best for spot cleaning before welding or painting.
Sandblasting (Abrasive Blasting):
Most effective for complete rust removal.
Use aluminum oxide or garnet grit (avoid sand if moisture is present).
(2) Chemical Rust Removers
Phosphoric Acid-Based Cleaners (e.g., Naval Jelly, Rust Converter):
Converts rust into a stable black phosphate layer.
Apply, wait 10–30 mins, then rinse with water.
Citric Acid or Vinegar Soak:
Eco-friendly option for light rust. Soak for 1–12 hours, then scrub.
(3) Electrolytic Rust Removal
For precision parts:
Submerge steel in a baking soda + water solution with a DC power source (anode: stainless steel).
Rust migrates off the A606 steel.
2. Preventing Future Oxidation (While Preserving Weathering Properties)
(1) Allow Natural Patina Formation
If you want the steel to self-protect:
Leave it exposed to open air (rain/sun cycles).
The rust will stabilize into a protective patina over 6–24 months.
(2) Clear Coatings (For Rust "Freeze")
Weathering Steel Sealers (e.g., Corten-specific acrylics):
Lock in the current rust appearance while preventing further flaking.
Must be breathable to allow slight moisture exchange.
(3) Oil or Wax Coating (Temporary Protection)
Apply linseed oil or corrosion-inhibiting wax for short-term storage.
Wipe off excess to avoid sticky residue.
(4) Galvanizing or Painting (For Non-Weathering Use)
Hot-Dip Galvanizing:
Zinc coating prevents rust but blocks patina formation.
Epoxy/Polyurethane Paint:
Only use if you don't want the weathering steel look.
